Out and about in Romania: Count Kálnoky’s guesthouse in Miclosoara; Valea Verde resort in Cund

I suppose‘Count Kálnoky’s Guesthouse’ in Miclosoara is no secret anymore, as this place has been in the media regularly and not only because of the occasional visits of the Prince of Wales. Miclosoara is about one hour north of Brasov in Szeklerland, Covasna County. So instead of Romanian, one is better advised to speak Hungarian with the local people. By Friedrich Niemann The Kálnoky Family have returned to Transylvania after 50 years of exile and had since found ways to save their heritage and reinstate the estate to its former character. In the tiny village of Miclosoara the family has restored several farm houses, dating from the 18th century and now offers eight guest rooms in different buildings scattered around the village. The guesthouses have been carefully restored in order to preserve their original Transylvanian charm and character and are situated within spacious gardens, with storks nesting on nearby rooftops. All rooms are amazingly comfortable, decorated in the old Transylvanian Szekler and Saxon styles. In order to create an atmosphere of peace and tranquility, the rooms do not have television or radio; instead, you will find plenty of interesting books on the shelves. You will also find tea and coffee making facilities and very comfy en suite bathrooms with hair dryers, floor heating and historic bathtubs. One should however avoid the room next to the sauna, as this does not have a private bath and one has to use the bathroom of the sauna, which is not really the best alternative. Right, there is also a sauna, a billiards room and equipment for badminton or table tennis in the garden. If you are staying for a few days, the guesthouse even offers to store your emptied luggage away, in order to clear space in your room. Like on the Inn on Balaban (which we covered in a previous article here), the price usually includes dinner, which is served family style, meaning that most guests sit at long tables and enjoy good country style fare, served either in the rustic and charming wine cellar or underneath the vine arbour in the garden. The food is organic and mostly produced in the village. Apart from the comfort of the accommodation and the overall flair of the place, it is this family atmosphere, which always attracted me most. Every time I visited the place I enjoyed unforgettable evenings, which we spent and enjoyed with total strangers (in the beginning of the night!), either playing cards for hours with a table full of British guests or getting nicely smashed with visitors from the US embassy in Sofia. The Transylvanian Castle organizes all kinds of tours and trips during your stay, be it wildlife walking tours in the neighbouring woods or culture and history trips to Brasov or the fortified churches in the area. The place is also very famous for its riding holidays as the family too breeds its own horses in a nearby stable. Coming from Bucharest, you have to pass through Brasov in the direction of Targu Mures until you reach the DN13. At Maierus leave the main road and turn right, following directions for Belin, Aita Mare and Baraolt. The village after Aita Mare will be Miclosoara. It will take you about fifteen minutes for the 17 km from leaving DN13. Pass the white church and go down the hill, to your right you will see a large wooden tastefully furnished old farmhouses, all with their separate entrances and large terraces as well as en suite bathrooms. All apartments are carefully furnished in order to create a relaxed, cosy and friendly atmosphere and in every living room you will find a wood-burning stove alongside the central heating to add extra warmth and comfort. For larger groups and higher demand one will find about ten other apartments in restored Saxon farmhouses scattered around the village, all preserving the simple and authentic charm of their past. What really sets